Jessica Costa: The artist who redefines textiles
In our series on tufting artists, we have the pleasure of meeting Jessica Costa . She is a visual artist from São Paulo, Brazil. Defining herself as an “artisan-artist,” Jessica explores the boundaries between art and craft. Her works interrogate themes of gender and contemporary female subjectivity.
Born on March 15, 1988, Jessica has been passionate about textile arts since a young age. A dedicated researcher, she studies gender perspectives in this art. She also teaches techniques such as tufting, machine knitting, and embroidery.
Jessica strives to represent female subjectivity in her work. “Textile techniques are cultivated and preserved in domestic spaces, emerging from women’s working conditions. My work represents a contemporary female subjectivity, connected to the collective narratives of generations of craftswomen, transcending the walls of domestic environments and occupying new spaces in the art world,” she explains.
Her installations, often inspired by the human body, integrate with the surrounding architecture. She applies colors to the wool with care, like painting. In doing so, she challenges hierarchies between materials.
Jessica discovered tufting online about seven years ago. However, she was only able to purchase a tufting gun in 2020, as materials were scarce in Brazil. "I've always been fascinated by the interaction between hands and machines, so I first learned how to use a home machine. My interest in the tufting gun was a natural progression from this exploration of 'hand machines'."
Tufting involves several steps , each with its own challenges. Jessica shares, "I love sculpting and carving the wool; it's very satisfying." However, she also mentions a less enjoyable step: "Finishing the back of the rugs is the least enjoyable part." Despite the dust, each step is essential to creating a unique piece.
Jessica draws inspiration from the human body, organs, and nature. "I spend a lot of time drawing and experimenting with color, sometimes digitally, other times painting with gouache. My inspiration comes from observation and the intensive study of sculpture, transforming two-dimensional elements into three-dimensional forms."
Jessica uses her installations to engage in a dialogue with the architecture of spaces. She aims to bring tapestry out of homes and into the public realm. "I create a dialogue between the public and the private, redefining domestic spaces," she explains.
To showcase the evolution of her work, Jessica presents two key works: O que me consome (2020) and Sobejos VI: entre nous deux (2024). Four years separate these creations, illustrating her journey and her growing mastery of the technique.
Sobejos VI: between our twos
O that consumes me
For those looking to get started, Jessica advises not to rely on online videos. "The work is much more time-consuming and physically demanding than it seems. Spend time with your visual references, drawing, and creating your own narrative."
Jessica shares photos of her workspace. It's practical and inspiring, filled with color, texture, and tools. "My studio is a reflection of my artistic vision. Each corner is dedicated to a different aspect of my creative process, from the shelves filled with colorful yarn to the walls covered in sketches and inspiration."
Jessica Costa is an artist whose work and research in textile arts transcend the boundaries between art and craft. By integrating traditional techniques with a modern vision, she has become an influential figure in tufting. Her works explore the feminine dimensions of textile art and redefine the spaces in which they take place. In doing so, she creates works that are both innovative and meaningful.
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