Jessica Costa: The Artist Redefining Textiles
In our series on tufting artists, we’re delighted to meet Jessica Costa. She is a visual artist from São Paulo, Brazil. Describing herself as an “artisan-artist,” Jessica explores the boundaries between art and craft. Her work explores themes of gender and contemporary female subjectivity.
Born on March 15, 1988, Jessica has been passionate about textile arts since she was very young. A dedicated researcher, she studies gender perspectives in this art form. She also teaches techniques such as tufting, machine knitting, and embroidery.
A Commitment to Textiles and Gender
Jessica strives to represent female subjectivity in her work. “Textile techniques are cultivated and preserved in domestic spaces, rooted in women’s working conditions. My work represents a contemporary female subjectivity connected to the collective stories of generations of women artisans, transcending the walls of domestic environments and occupying new spaces in the art world,” she explains.
Her installations, often inspired by the human body, integrate with the surrounding architecture. She carefully applies color to the wool, like paint. In doing so, she challenges hierarchies between materials.
Discovering Tufting and Falling in Love with It
Jessica discovered tufting online about seven years ago. However, she was only able to buy a tufting gun in 2020, as materials were scarce in Brazil. “I’ve always been fascinated by the interaction between hands and machines, which is why I first learned to use a domestic sewing machine. My interest in the tufting gun was a natural progression of this exploration of ‘hand-operated machines.’”
Tufting Step by Step
Tufting involves several steps, each with its own challenges. Jessica shares, “I love carving and chiseling the wool; it’s so satisfying.” However, she also mentions a less enjoyable step: “Finishing the backs of the rugs is the least enjoyable part.” Despite the dust, every step is essential to creating a unique piece.
Creation and Inspiration
Jessica draws inspiration from the human body, organs, and nature. “I spend a lot of time drawing and experimenting with colors, sometimes digitally and other times by painting with gouache. My inspiration comes from observing and studying sculpture intensely, transforming two-dimensional elements into three-dimensional forms.”
Redefining Domestic Spaces
Jessica uses her installations to engage in a dialogue with the architecture of the spaces. She wants to take tapestries out of homes and bring them into the public realm. “I create a dialogue between public and private, thereby redefining domestic spaces,” she explains.
Artistic Evolution: From O que me consome to Sobejos VI: entre nós duas
To show how her work has evolved, Jessica presents two key pieces: O que me consome (2020) and Sobejos VI: entre us two (2024). Four years separate these creations, illustrating her journey and growing mastery of the technique.
Sobejos VI: between us two
O que me consome
Tips for Beginner Tufting Artists
For anyone who wants to get started, Jessica advises against relying on online videos. “The work is much more time-consuming and physically demanding than it looks. Spend time with your visual references, draw, and create your own narrative.”
Jessica’s Studio: A Creative Space
Jessica shares photos of her workspace. It is practical and inspiring, filled with colors, textures, and tools. “My studio reflects my artistic vision. Every corner is dedicated to a different part of my creative process, from shelves filled with colorful yarn to walls covered with sketches and inspiration.”
Conclusion
Jessica Costa is an artist whose work and research in textile arts go beyond the boundaries between art and craft. By incorporating traditional techniques into a modern vision, she has become an influential figure in tufting. Her work explores the feminine dimensions of textile art and redefines the spaces it inhabits. In this way, she creates works that are both innovative and meaningful.
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