We continue our series of articles and interviews dedicated to artists specializing in tufting with a fascinating encounter: Jessica Costa, a visual artist from São Paulo, Brazil. Jessica describes herself as an “artisan-artist,” a way of blurring the line between these two worlds and highlighting the richness of her work.
Born on March 15, 1988, Jessica Costa has always been drawn to textile arts and crafts. She is also a researcher, with a particular interest in the gender perspective in textile arts, and she teaches techniques such as tufting, machine knitting and embroidery.
Jessica strives to represent a contemporary female subjectivity through her work. “Textile techniques are cultivated and preserved in domestic spaces, stemming from women’s working conditions. My work represents a contemporary female subjectivity, connected to the collective narratives of generations of craftswomen, transcending the walls of domestic environments and occupying new spaces in the art world,” she explains. She explores tapestry through panels and installations that organically integrate with the architecture of the spaces. The forms are inspired by the observation of the body, while the colors are applied in a painterly manner, questioning the hierarchy of materials by treating wool with the same quality as painting.
Jessica discovered tufting about seven years ago via the internet. However, she only got her first tufting gun in 2020, due to the scarcity of materials in Brazil. “I have always been fascinated by the interaction between hands and machines, so I first learned how to use a home machine. My interest in the tufting gun was a natural progression of this exploration of ‘manual machines’.”
There are several stages to completing a tufted piece, each with its own challenges and preferences. Jessica explains, “I love sculpting and carving the wool. Watching the wool transform and take shape is incredibly satisfying.” However, she also shares the challenges of the process: “Finishing the back of the rugs is the least enjoyable part.” Despite the dust and dirt, each step is essential to creating a unique piece.
Jessica creates all her designs inspired by the human body, organs and nature. "I spend a lot of time drawing and experimenting with colours, sometimes digitally, other times painting with gouache. My inspirations come from observation and intensive study of sculpture, transforming two-dimensional elements into three-dimensional forms."
Jessica's installation work aims to dominate the architecture of spaces, invading corners and taking the tapestry out of the domestic hearth. "I create a dialogue between the public and the private, redefining domestic spaces," she explains.
To illustrate the evolution of her work, Jessica presents us with "O que me consome" (2020) and "Sobejos VI: entre nós duas" (2024). Almost four years separate these works, illustrating her artistic and technical evolution. "The progression between these two pieces shows not only an increased mastery of technique, but also a deeper exploration of the themes that fascinate me."
Interested in getting started with tufting? Jessica advises those looking to get started not to be fooled by online videos. “The work is much more time-consuming and physically demanding than it seems. Spend time with your visual references, drawing, and creating your own narrative. Tapestry is a language, and we are responsible for the images we create or reproduce.”
Finally, the question we love to ask: what does the artist’s studio look like? Jessica shares photos of her workspace, a practical and inspiring place filled with color, texture, and tools, where she creates all of her creations. “My studio is a reflection of my artistic vision. Each corner is dedicated to a different aspect of my creative process, from the shelves filled with colorful yarn to the walls covered in sketches and inspirations.”
Jessica Costa is an artist whose work and research in textiles and arts transcends the boundaries between art and craft. Her ability to fuse traditional techniques with a contemporary vision has made her a force to be reckoned with in the tufting field. By exploring the feminine dimension of textile art, Jessica redefines domestic and artistic spaces, creating works that are both innovative and deeply meaningful. For more of her work and upcoming creations, follow Jessica Costa on social media and stay tuned for more inspiring artists in our tufting series.
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